Because some people just get all the talent, Diego Oka is a gifted cook and an incredible ceramicist. And he’s showcasing it all in a big way at Amano, his new culinary concept for La Mar. The sensorial tasting menu experience, whose name translates to “by hand” in Spanish, is a passion project for the chef, who’s still overseeing the kitchen at La Mar while also finding the time to create Amano’s deeply personal menu and the nearly 400 unique ceramic plates and tableware at the forefront of these dinners.
Amano serves an eight-course menu ($260) rooted in Oka’s signature Nikkei style, elevated by storytelling and flourishes that include a tableside presentation and special take-home gifts we won’t spoil for you in this recap. In fact, sharing what goes on at Amano is a bit tricky as the element of surprise certainly adds to the wow factor of every dish. With that in mind, diners are presented with a postcard illustrating the ceramic vessel when served and the full menu isn’t shared until the very end. You’d be wise to listen and take photos to really soak in what happens at Amano.
You also have the option to add a wine pairing for an extra $150. Budget permitting, splurge on that too. Not only was it an excellent selection of sparkling, white and red, but it also highlighted the importance of wine culture in Peru and its connection to La Mar. You’re served six glasses to go with your eight courses.
Keep in mind that dishes often change as ingredients come in and out of season—and Oka draws new inspiration—but diners can always expect a causa, a ceviche, a noodle dish, something with fish, and always the pachamanca. The menu will flow freely and unexpectedly, much like the creation of Amano itself.
“We didn’t plan to make a tasting menu, you know? We planned to make pottery and specials. And then we said, ‘let’s add a tablecloth,’” says Oka. It was followed by the decision to use glasses and cutlery different from what’s in service at La Mar, and the idea continued to grow from there. “There are a lot of surprises,” he adds.
The experience is available exclusively on Thursday through Saturday with two nightly seatings, 6:15pm and 9:15pm. Read on for a taste of what you can expect and, warning, there are spoilers.
The Dishes:
El Tiradito – Japanese Kinmedai cured in kombu, Florida finger limes, Hokkaido uni, leche de tigre with artichoke-smoked bacon.
Los Fideos – A blue crystal noodle made with Peruvian potato and a sesame butter dressing poured on top. Pickled garlic, cured duck magret, and a selection of three roes (trout, mentaiko, tobiko) accompany the dish.
Wine Pairing – Nervi, the oldest cantina in Gattinara. It is 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Uva rara. It is the funnest Nebbiolo ever from the oldest vineyard, featuring bright acidity and vibrant cherry notes.
La Papa – The dish is served on what looks like a chicharrón but the plate is supposed to be the beginning of the Andean mountain range, home to more than 4,000 potato varieties. You’re served one big yellow Peruvian potato that’s been fried in wagyu fat. Veal heart, cheese sauce, huacatay and chanterelle mushroom accompany the spud.
Escondido – This dish, Chef Diego’s favorite when he returns to Peru, was inspired by his grandmother. It features charred Spanish octopus with miso anticuchera and botija olives aioli. On top, there is a kabocha squash bone and shaved burgundy truffle.
Wine pairing – Pithos Rosso. This old-style Sicilian wine is made with hand-harvested organic grapes and uses native yeast for spontaneous fermentation. It’s finished in terracotta amphora tanks that deliver an intense, authentic, unfiltered experience.
Picante – This bouquet of green seasonal leaves picante nikkei, charcoal sea eel, then pickled kimchi lotus silk stems.
Wine pairing – Cheateua Beychevelle is from a historic Bordeaux vineyard with 30-year-old vines of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. This is an 1855 Grand Tour with rich, black fruit notes.
Pachamanca – Pacha means earth and manca (means open), and so the portmanteau highlights the traditional cooking technique that’s done underground. The dish is a Peruvian corn and quinoa tamal that’s cooked with the organic-rich soil from Homestead. It’s topped with a four-hour pork belly jowl and finished with micro talaca (onion, cilantro and lime) and adobo sauce.
Palette cleanser – A refreshing dish comprising shiso and yuzu compressed watermelon, carbonated leche de tigre and pink potato jelly.
Wine pairing – Late Harvest Tokaji from the Oremus vineyard, the first officially classified vineyard in 1772, is a silky wine that isn’t the expected sugary dessert bomb but instead a balanced acidity and sweetness from citrus and stone fruit with a pinch of ginger.
La Cuchara – Choose your next piece of art for a dessert like no other. It’s savory and refreshing, and it includes white asparagus ice cream, rice quinoa, red onions, basil, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil.
Spoilers Below!
After dessert, a beautiful box of Petit Fours arrives, along with an old-school Viewmaster that offers a behind-the-scenes look at Amano. In what looks like a jewelry box with multiple compartments, you’re given kokada, lucuma, smoked chocolate truffle, chicha morada jelly, and cherimoya marshmallows.
The fancy spoon you choose to use for the dessert course is actually yours to keep. Handmade by Diego Oka, the one-of-a-kind spoons are packaged and gifted to diners at the end of their meal. But that’s not all you get to take home: every person receives a ready-to-make batch of gourmet pancake batter made in-house and spiced maple syrup. A delightful way to remember last night’s incredible meal the following morning. Guests also have the opportunity to tour Diego’s ceramic studio, a hotel room he’s transformed into a cozy creative retreat that’s filled with prototypes and pieces in the works. Impressive as always, Oka shows off his many talents in and away from the kitchen.
