Ryan Ratino is no stranger to accolades: He’s the chef and owner of one Michelin-starred Bresca and two Michelin-starred JÔNT in Washington, D.C. And by the looks of his Fort Lauderdale restaurant, MAASS, he’s angling for a third starred concept. 

Located inside the Four Seasons Fort Lauderdale overlooking the beach, the contemporary American restaurant features a sleek, mid-century modern design anchored by a pristine open kitchen. This is where we spotted Ratino, presiding over a perfectly synchronized team and a mesmerizing wood-fire grill. As we lingered too long near the kitchen, we noticed a handful of people sitting at the chef’s counter, enjoying a lavish tasting menu. But then, it was our turn to take our seats in one of the welcoming booths. (Note to come back to experience watching the masters at work.)

While our experience was á la carte, it did include MAASS’s signatures, starting with a few playful dishes that redefine indulgence. The Foie Gras Macaron was a sweet and savory surprise with tangy strawberries. Mini Lobster Rolls in pillowy brioche buns were as charming as they were delicious. Custom buckets of Truffle-topped Popcorn also found their way to the table—the combination of the crispy popcorn and the rich, umami flavor of truffle created a sophisticated twist on a classic treat. The last snack was, perhaps, the most irresistible: a warm and fluffy Hearth Focaccia Bread served with a unique Caccio Pepe dip. 

We moved on to the Charred Avocado—filled with lobster salad, caviar, and scallion; it was a sophisticated dish that effortlessly combined bold flavors with a refined presentation. It followed the Tuna Crudo, a classic whose sliced radishes and citrus segments made it a showstopper of colors and texture. 

Entrées were a taste of surf and turf: Diver Scallops over a velvety corn velouté, with the earthy aroma of black truffle and the nutty richness of brown butter, adding layers of complexity. The Japanese Wagyu Bavette is served with just the right amount of marbling and tenderness in a peppercorn sauce. 

At this point, the expected petite fours served at restaurants of MAASS’s caliber were superfluous but the fluffy Madeleines were too good to pass up. Chocolate Cake with dark chocolate and coffee, Raspberry Mochi “Tacos,” and Vanilla Shaved Ice with strawberry and pecans capped off a very long and indulgent dinner, and each course left us eagerly anticipating the next.