At Bey Bey, the menu looks like something you might pick up at a record shop. Illustrated little booklets, bold graphics, the feeling that someone had as much fun putting them together as you’re about to have working through dinner. The playlist is excellent, and the red-lit lounge, with its low sofas gives you somewhere to appreciate it. There’s seating inside and out, with an open kitchen framed by a broad arch. Outdoors, tropical plants surround the neon sign, and our dinner spread across a mosaic tabletop.
Now in its third season after a summer break, Bey Bey brings Lebanese and Yucatán influences to the table. The cocktails made a good first impression, from The Sweet Potato One, a rum milk punch beneath a pale cap of foam, to the tall Japanese Arnold Palmer, with gin, jasmine tea, yogurt and citrus with edible nori sheets as garnish. The Heritage Gimlet arrived in a coupe with star anise, a little sweeter than the traditional version. The House Bread arrived perfectly blistered, finished with tahini za’atar and flaky salt.
The Za’atar Fried Chicken came in golden, jagged pieces with tomatillo, pickled chili and burnt pineapple. Alongside it, the Baby Gem brought goat cheese, sourdough crunch and green goddess dressing, its leaves piled into a floral bowl. A very good start.
The Lamb Shank was hard to miss, a generous bone-in portion with a dark, glossy exterior, herbs, pomegranate and pistachio. The Grilled Catch brought branzino with pita labne purée and black garlic, its skin deeply browned, with charred onion and herbs sitting in golden sauce. I can still taste the delicious char.
Vegetables held their own. The Charcoal Sweet Potato arrived split open, its blackened skin framing orange flesh beneath salsa macha. Crispy Cauliflower came deeply browned over chili labne, finished with tossed herbs. We enjoyed these as much as the larger plates.
For dessert, the Basque Labne Cheesecake wore a browned top and a generous spill of berry compote. The Sticky Date Cake came with burnt honey caramel and a cloud of tahini foam dusted with recado negro. Two very different ways to finish, both worth a spoonful. The dessert menu also has a less conventional offering: Jamie’s Loosie, a complimentary cigarette for those who fancy a smoke.
We went in not knowing quite what to expect and left delighted. Great cocktails, a playlist worth asking about, and a kitchen that gave us plenty to talk about.