There’s nothing like a Saturday or Sunday spent at the Grove – especially now, with its abundance of stylish storefronts and excellent restaurants. If you’re looking for a brunch that’s worth writing home about, then book yourself an outdoor table at Los Felix and soak in the best Coconut Grove has to offer.
This is the Mexican restaurant everyone’s been talking about, and it’s one of Miami’s eleven Michelin Star recipients of 2022. It’s helmed by Chef Sebastián Vargas, a Colombian native who has trained under Massimo Bottura, Daniel Humm, and Magnus Nilssen to name a few. It’s no wonder he’s on Bon Appétit’s list of “Chefs To Look Out For.” Chef Vargas’ dishes may be rooted in Mesoamerican traditions and the masa – ground in-house and in-view by indoor diners – may be sourced from traditional Mexican farms, but the way in which he wields his ingredients and techniques are limitlessly creative and forward-thinking.
This is a corn-lovers paradise. If you’re the first of your friends to get there, hold off your hunger with fresh Guac and Totopos, and top each scoop with a dollop of salsa (Beware! The terracotta-hued one is for true spice lovers only). Once everyone arrives, rush order a heaping plate of Chilaquiles. They’re among the freshest you’ll find in Miami, tastefully slathered in whipped sour cream, cotija cheese, fresh cilantro and black beans – and a dollop of caviar or braised pork belly for an additional cost. Continue the tortilla bacchanalia with the Egg Tostada, which billows like a mushroom cloud over fresh avocado, pickled red onions and hazelnut matcha salsa. It’s a good size for sharing, though it’s also light enough to eat by yourself and still save room for dessert.
For a meaty protein boost, we ordered the Green Chorizo, which is a nice accompaniment to all of the corn dishes. Actually, this, too, comes with corn – a crumby bread encircled by a fresh cilantro wreath. And if you need a break from crunchy dishes, the Corn Grits are a good option. They’re much more supple and creamy than normal grits, and come with oyster mushrooms, a poached egg and shaved truffles on top. That, or the Masa Pancake, which is sweet enough to be filed under “dessert.”
The drink menu doesn’t lead with artisanal mezcals and tequila; instead it’s driven by aperitifs, wine and craft beers. The Margarita, for example, has a sake base, while the Palomita features a Spanish sparkling wine called Txacoli. We opted to keep things traditional: a pitcher of crushable Sangria Felix for the table, which features rosé, vermouth and ginger liqueur. We also got a round of Micheladas, and note, these are not your average Clamato concoction. There’s Tripping Animals No Mames lager, sea salt, lime, and *bartender’s kiss* tamarind chamoy. It is absolutely wonderful.
Los Felix is located in the taco trifecta of the Grove – El Taquito is right across the street and Bodega is just two doors over. And yet every dish takes you on a sacred journey through Mexico, deeply grounded in its millenia-old traditions and bursting with modern flavor.