For a place to survive on Biscayne Boulevard, it needs to be good. Most people use Biscayne on their route to somewhere else, but places like Pinch Kitchen are making it a destination. Giant red roses painted by Gabriel Gobble adorn the outside walls. It’s a cozy, dimly lit 10-table hangout. You might forget you were on Biscayne if it weren’t for the silent view from the windows.
Chefs and owners John Gallo and Rene Reyes, of Pubbelly Sushi, Barceloneta and L’echon Brasserie, have been serving New American cuisine with Pinch since 2015. The team recently introduced its new menu, focusing on small dishes with bold ingredients. Chef Gallo tells us the experience is meant to be family style with bites from around the world, from Turkey to Morocco to Japan.
The flavors are international, but the produce is sourced from local farmers. The team shows its versatility with their ability to make vegetables crave-able. Some standouts include Smoky Shishito Peppers topped with creamy house-cured egg yolk and katsuo-bishi (dehydrated fish scales) and the Spicy Cauliflower served over refreshing raita (a Moroccan sauce reminiscent of tzatziki). One of the best bites of the night is the Crispy Pan-seared Beef Dumplings filled with savoy cabbage and served with lemon-shoyu (similar to soy sauce).
Save room for the Pinch Baklava, a modern twist on a Greek classic. This smooth pistachio and honey ice cream are topped with a crispy filo dough and coarse salt. Gallo and Reyes nail big flavors and small bites for this new family-style menu. The only thing that would make it better is if the Pinch Baklava was sold by the pint.